How To Repair Ceiling Wallpaper
Step by footstep guide to making dust…..lamentable, I mean fixing up your lath and plaster ceiling!
Traditional lath and plaster ceilings and walls, (or lathe and plaster depending on your spelling!), really add to the charm and feel of living in a period house. Unfortunately, lath & plaster is prone to nifty, sagging or even partially falling down. The practiced news is that it'southward oft possible to repair lath & plaster ceilings (and walls) and make them last a while longer, (it depends on what look you're aiming for and of course your upkeep).
The plaster has started to fall away in this ceiling, exposing the lath, but only after 150 years!
All the same, since you are here, you might take a sagging ceiling or 1 that is badly cracked and falling off the laths. Arguably you lot could be justified in removing the plaster and/or the laths altogether and starting over. Or you might want plasterboard (sheet-rock in the USA) correct from the first, recessed downwards-lights in the ceiling being the usual culprit!
OK, lets have a look at your plasterwork and get through your options. Its a long page but there'southward a lot to explain!
Caveats start though OK. This 'how to' explains how to deport out repairs and/or to have down a lath and plaster ceiling that you might want (and have permission) to remove. Plaster ceilings in some listed houses may need to be retained and repaired rather than removed (check showtime!). If this page tempts yous into tackling this job yourself, please jump down and read my prophylactic info first!
Too, I take linked to various external info and suppliers where it's useful. Places similar English Heritage, because they have skilful info about looking later old houses.
OK, enough blurb, lets become started……
Evaluating whether to remove your lath and plaster ceilings
Stand underneath one corner of your ceiling on a suitable ladder and with your caput almost touching the ceiling look across the surface, do a 90 degree sweep looking for any unevenness, sagging sections, cracks etc. Try again from the opposing corners. Your ceiling may wait flat from the floor, but one time you get up there and have a closer expect, you will get a much meliorate idea of its condition.
Lath and plaster in 'textbook' status
A sagging ceiling does non necessarily mean that the plasterwork has broken away from the lath though. Quondam houses settle and the ceilings go along for the ride. So, if your ceiling is sagging or sloping, it may still be OK.
If there are areas where you doubtable that the plaster has separated from the lathgently push upwards with the palm of your hands. A little give is normal but if you feel the plaster move upwards and downward, this ways that it is not attached to the laths. Dust and droppings may fall from cracks as y'all exercise this.
NOTE: Don't go crazy here, if you push button and shove a really bad ceiling hard a few times, y'all might end up 'wearing' it! Go gently 😕
Lath and plaster and how it usually fails
Sometimes the lime mortar or plasterwork separates from the laths and drops down. Finer this means that the plasterwork is hanging underneath the supporting laths and joists, about unsupported. Sometimes it is only the horse hair strands in the mortar that is holding up the plasterwork!
If left in this perilous state, chunks of plasterwork will eventually first to crevice and even drib away, either in modest pieces or in large sheets if at that place is a water leak or even someone jumping on the flooring higher up etc.
Because repairing a lath and plaster ceiling similar this can exist expensive, y'all might make the decision to remove it completely and replace it with plasterboard.
Withal, we are getting ahead of ourselves, every bit there may be alternatives to completely removing all the plaster and laths in your ceilings.
Alternatives to removing a bad lath and plaster ceiling….
Over-boarding with plasterboard
- A board and plaster ceiling tin be left in identify and 'over-boarded' with plasterboard, using long drywall screws through the existing lath and plaster into the joists (not ideal merely, quite ordinarily washed). You lot will hear this option discussed a lot, hence being first in this listing! (Or for overboarding "plus"…….)
- Screw 25mm x 50mm battens underneath all of the existing joists. This 'sandwiches' and supports the old plasterwork. The battens tin also exist packed level/flat using sparse plastic or timber 'shims' as they are screwed tight. Plasterboards are then fitted as normal, (sometimes incorporating insulation and a vapour barrier).
Repairing express damage or cracks in lath and plaster (ceilings and walls)
- If your ceiling has some cracking but feels pretty secure otherwise, and then the cracks can be repaired. Scrape or brush out loose cloth from the cracks and fill up using decorators filler. Fine cracks could be filled with a flexible decorators caulk and smoothed over with a filling knife.
- A sound (ish!) lath and plaster ceilings appearance can be improved profoundly by the utilize of a good quality, thick lining paper. Lining paper has the benefit of 'tightening' everything up and giving the ceiling an uniform expect. It can then exist busy notwithstanding you wish(ironically, some are painted to look 'distressed'!?!).
- Small areas of missing or loose plasterwork tin be re-plastered, preferably using like haired lime based mortars and plasters. If these are not available to you lot, then areas tin be re-plastered using modern lightweight bankroll plasters and finish plaster. Ensure that loose plaster and grit is removed and damp the area a lilliputian earlier re-plastering. Ask at your local builders merchant for suitable plasters.
Re-plastering with traditional lime based mortar and plasters
- A rare culling to complete removal, is the removal of the sagging and broken plasterwork and re-plastering the original laths (assuming they are OK) with a suitable haired lime mortar and lime finish plaster. Yous will need access to the top of the laths to clear away the 'keys' or mortar 'snots' that were pushed through the gaps in the board the first time. A specialist job in effect.
Fully repairing a 'protected' board and plaster ceiling
- This goes beyond what I intended to write about here, merely of class given enough time and money fifty-fifty the worst ceilings tin can be rescued, as you would to satisfy the government if your ceilings were historically valuable.
- Briefly, the plasterwork is gently supported from underneath and working from the elevation all broken keys, dust and often centuries of droppings are carefully removed.
- Repairs tin can and so exist carried out using stabilizing chemicals, wire mesh and adhesives or plasters, with the aim of reattaching the plasterwork below.
- Complicated, expensive, not your average DIY project and arguably beyond even the boilerplate builder.
And when all else fails……………
How to completely remove a lath and plaster ceiling….
Tools you will need
Fortunately you don't demand many and you may already have them in your tool kit.
- Working platform, sturdy stride ladders or builders trestles etc
- Hook hammer or other lightish hammer.
- Gauging or brick trowel.
- Crow or wrecking bar or the awesome 'Roughneck' ceiling killer!
- Option axe (optional but useful for getting the old lathes downwardly if you don't accept the Roughneck).
- Make clean up gear. Shovel, sweeping castor, dustpan etc and vacuum cleaner (preferably not the missus'south best one!).
Other gear that you may demand
- Dust protection such as Polythene and dustsheets.
- Rubble sacks (or Gorilla style tubs if y'all have a skip).
- Electrical screwdrivers for removing former low-cal fittings.
- Temporary lighting if required.
Boosted things to consider…..
The mess…..
Did I mention that removing lath and plaster ceilings can get a little bit messy………?
It gets messy?……Oh yeah. It gets really, really, actually messy. Seriously, information technology makes and so much dust that I recommend that y'all remove everything from the room and seal off the doors with masking tape before yous outset. (Oh, and in case you were wondering, this kitchen was coming out. You tin can also just make out the trestles which, when coupled with scaffold battens fabricated a perfect working platform for removing this high ceiling).
All that mess comes from dust that accumulates on top of your former plasterwork and from inside the plasterwork itself. The dust is very fine in particle size and it gets everywhere, really, I mean it, everywhere!
If you have to canvas downwards some stuff, I would recommend that you include a polythene layer as the dust is frequently fine plenty to go through the boilerplate grit sail. Don't ask me how I discovered that fiddling gem!
Lighting
Once the room is cleared and sheeted down, including the floor, y'all may demand to install your temporary lighting and remove any light fittings in the ceiling and make rubber any wires that you disconnect (don't forget to isolate the supply first!). Evidently if you tackle the job in broad daylight and there are windows……
Ventilation
Bit obvious this i, but you should open up any windows if y'all can and don't forget your dust mask!
Step by footstep guide to remove your board and plaster ceiling….
Removing a lath and plaster ceiling is a three phase process (assuming that yous are removing it from underneath). Read removing lath and plaster from to a higher place if applicable.
- Remove the plaster using a claw hammer or similar and a stout trowel. Working in front of yourself, tap the plasterwork with your hammer to break information technology upwardly and if it doesn't drib abroad, proceed borer information technology and then either utilise the claw on your hammer or lever the plasterwork off with the trowel. On really poor ceilings the trowel tin can be slid underneath the plasterwork and large pieces can exist levered away. NB: It's really important to clear away at the end of this phase when all the plaster is on the floor. Yous don't need to sweep up necessarily, just become the large stuff cleared away using a shovel (otherwise the next phase will brand a huge pile of lath reinforced plaster that is a bugger to clear up!).
- The adjacent stride is to remove the laths. I commonly use a 'pick axe' of all things! I slide the blade through a few laths and then identify the head of the choice-axe onto the bottom of a joist and lever downward large sections of laths. You might want to showtime small and utilize a hook hammer or pry bar (crow bar). The laths normally intermission into smallish sections. I can recommend the 'Roughneck' bar though, information technology makes the chore easy.
- The final step is to remove the nails (apart from clearing upwardly!) that were belongings up the laths. This is usually fairly ho-hum and fourth dimension consuming as they are very numerous and rusty. Oh, and you must not miss whatsoever, not even one. Believe me, y'all will expletive when you are plaster-boarding if you effort to put a lath up and at that place is a nail in the middle somewhere! Sometimes you can pull them out with a claw hammer or pry bar, sometimes they snap off sideways with a blow from the hammer and sometimes yous just need to hammer them in! You'll work out what's best for your job rapidly plenty.
Time for a cup of coffee and a break to permit the dust settle 😀 .
Dorsum then soon? Right, next is the irksome immigration up scrap.
- Start with gathering up all the fallen laths, breaking up any long lengths and put into rubble sacks, skip or woods pile for burning.
- Now y'all will encounter lots of plaster on the floor again. This is the mortar (snots, nibs or keys) that was sitting on top of the laths later being pushed up through the gaps in the laths to provide a key for the plasterwork. Scrape up the mortar with a shovel or dustpan and remove once more.
Did I mention the dust when taking down a board and plaster ceiling………?
- That leaves the dust. This tin can be swept up and bagged for disposal. Yous might want to try minimizing the airborne dust by damping down with a garden sprayer, but I'll be honest, it is not that effective and the existing mess will be considerable anyway.
Now you are set up for re-boarding with plasterboard, but first you will probably be getting the electrician to install new cables for those fancy new downward-lights that you want!
- TIP 1: Don't forget to grab a pencil and put a vertical marker on the wall about an inch and a one-half long (40mm) that indicates where the middle of the joist is. This makes finding your fixing bespeak and so much easier when you are boarding.
- TIP 2: If the ceiling joists are annihilation other than direct across along the whole length, i.e. if in that location is whatsoever 'trimmed' areas that won't exist logical in one case the plasterboard has been offered up. Consider taking photographs of the joist layout; y'all'll exist glad y'all did if you get stuck and can't find anything to set to once you are boarding!
- Tip 3: Now is a skillful time to bank check the joists for 'flatness', extra timber can be fixed to the joists to level up slopes or dips etc at this phase. Some people fifty-fifty 'cantankerous batten' the ceiling with 2″x2″ timber at 90 degrees to the joists..
Hopefully that gives y'all a good understanding of what's involved in taking down a lath and plaster ceiling or fifty-fifty how to repair your plaster and board ceiling. Brand no mistake, tackling board & plaster is non a determination to have lightly and certainly non a job to attempt yourself, unless y'all can tolerate a heck of a lot of mess and drama for a few hours.
Related useful data
Removing a lath and plaster ceiling from above
I'll briefly mention removing a ceiling from above, as it is a popular method if you lot have access to a ceiling from above, peculiarly on a full renovation job of an empty house.
Working from above you tin can push the whole lath and plaster ceiling down into the room beneath, using a shovel, sledge hammer or even their boots. Only tap the dorsum of the laths close to and either side of the joists with your preferred tool (I recommend a lightish long handled 7lb sledgehammer)
I don't utilize this method as I notice that the lathes and mortar become all mixed upwardly, making the heap of debris very difficult to articulate up. Arguably though, I can see the claim of working from above, withal, peachy care must be taken not to fall through the joists. For this reason alone I would Non recommend removing lath and plaster ceilings from above, unless y'all are a pro, but then you wouldn't exist reading this would you 🙂
My Superlative X Ways to Repair Board and Plaster
This is a short summary of some of the ways you tin repair the lath and plaster in your home, depending upon the await you want to reach, the time you desire to spend on it and of course, your budget.
- Re-decorate equally information technology is. Vacuum to remove grit, (launder down, if required) and then re-decorate with suitable h2o based paint. Not a practiced repair if the plasterwork has gone beyond the cracking stage, i.e. sagging desperately. Depends on original plasterwork condition.
- Cost: Very economic and quick.
- Pros: Menses charm in affluence. Ideal for very old cottages that don't have a directly edge or surface in them. Shows imperfections.
- Cons: Potentially unsafe and possibly very short term solution for damaged plasterwork. Non a 'flat' finish. Shows imperfections!
- Fill the cracks and blemishes. Scrape out all cracks and vacuum out loose material. Fill up cracks and minor blemishes with decorators' filler using a suitably sized scraper or drywall spreader. Gently sand the filler flat and vacuum all grit away. Wash down if required and re-decorate.
- Cost: Economic repair.
- Pros: Retains period feel. Looks expert initially. Like shooting fish in a barrel and quick repair.
- Cons: Might only last a few years depending on plasterworks original status.
- Use thick lining paper. Scrape out and fill up cracks equally No.2. Glue a thick grade of decorating lining paper to the plasterwork. Re-decorate.
- Cost: Reasonably economical repair.
- Pros: Retains period feel. Could gain many more than years out of reasonable plasterwork.
- Cons: Relatively difficult on uneven surfaces. Won't finish further neat over time if surface is still moving.
- Glue sagging plasterwork back into place. Plasterwork can be 'glued' back into place past drilling holes in the plasterwork, vacuuming out the dust and injecting a suitable adhesive. The plasterwork is then gently pushed back into place and supported until the agglutinative dries.
- Cost: Medium to loftier cost, depending on time taken and plasterwork condition.
- Pros: Medium term effectiveness. Retains period feel.
- Cons: Arguably a specialised job and may exist too hard for an effective DIY repair.
- Expose the beams. Completely remove the lath and plaster, de-nail and clear away. Wire brush all plaster marks off the joists. Re-route whatsoever wiring, if required and repair any harm, holes in the timberwork etc. Clean up and vacuum all surfaces. Get out equally is or decorate with varnish, wood stain, or paint. Usually just used on ceilings (walls sometimes in the USA due to meliorate sawn board)
- Cost: Economical to medium depending on timberwork condition.
- Pros: All the old plasterwork is removed and finished with newly decorated surfaces.
- Cons: Unlike look and feel, arguably only suited to sure properties and owners. Difficult electrical wiring and limited choice of light fittings.
- Over board with plasterboard or sheetrock. Notice the frame or ceiling joists, marker their position on the wall and so over-lath with plasterboard / sheetrock using long (60mm to 75mm) drywall screws into the original timberwork. Board joints are then taped and filled if tapered edge drywall is used or skimmed with end plaster if square edges boards are used. One of the most common methods to 'repair' a lath and plasterwork. If 25mm 10 50mm battens are used first underneath the joists, this becomes a good repair every bit it secures the former plasterwork and allows new wiring and insulation.
- Price: Medium to high.
- Pros: Effectively a brand new surface is created out of plasterboard/sheetrock.
- Cons: Potential problems with adding additional weight or levels if at that place is a cornice. Loses that menses feel.
- Remove the plasterwork and lath entirely.Supervene upon with plasterboards / sheetrock. Mark positions of all joists and timbers then set up 12.5mm plasterboards to the underside of the original joists using 38mm drywall screws. Board joints are then taped and filled if tapered edge boards are used, or skimmed with end plaster if foursquare edged boards are used.
- Cost: High. Removal of sometime material, new boards and finishing makes this i of the about expensive options.
- Pros: Plasterboards/sheetrock are stable and very flat. A permanent repair.
- Cons: Loses the period feel.
- Re plastering keeping the original laths. Removing the existing plasterwork entirely and if the lathwork is sound, re-apply the three coat plasterwork, ii base of operations coats and a thin finish coat.
- Cost: High, due to special skills and materials needed.
- Pros: Good as new finish, that also matches the surrounding menstruation work. Long term repair.
- Cons: Arguably not a DIY proposition due to piece of work involving lime plasterwork.
- Heritage quality.Fully back up the plasterwork from underneath on blanket covered timber on props or staging. Working from above, gently remove all loose droppings, one-time keys or nibs and dust. Utilise one of the various systems available, for example fixing a wire mesh to the inside edges of the joists merely above the plasterwork and and then applying adhesive to the plasterwork embedding it into the mesh.
- Price: Eastxpensive due to extreme care needed and labour involved.
- Pros: Retains all original period features. Usually only used on plasterwork of significant historical involvement.
- Cons: Arguably non a DIY proffer due to intendance needed to preserve original features without damage.
- Buy a newer house.Sorry, I couldn't make 10 and ix ways to repair your lath and plaster only didn't sound correct. Any ideas for number ten are almost welcome…….
- Cost: Horribly expensive, removal companies, manor agents, lawyers etc.
- Pros: No lath and plaster to repair.
- Cons: Everything is very, very flat, smooth and arguably…..wearisome.
Need More Information or Help?
Urban legend has it that yous only need to read half dozen books on a subject to exist classed as an 'good' (not sure what that makes me as I read well over 100 a year!). So, here are some books I institute useful in my piece of work on old houses, to go you started!
All available from amazon.co.uk (or hither at amazon.com for the balance of the world), merely follow the links to accept a peek! (information technology'southward a prissy style to say thank you for the guide if you buy, as amazon chip in towards my coffee bill!)
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Not destined for the coffee table……..
Old Business firm Handbook:A Practical Guide to Care and Repair, by Roger Hunt and Marianne Suhr. Hardback.
Don't exist deceived, this book may be at home on the java table, but information technology packs a lot of actually useful information into its 208 pages. Passed and approved by my favorite 'Establish', the guys at SPAB, the Society for the Protection of Ancient Buildings.
The book teaches you to work with your house, not fight it. Repair not restore or renovate. If you are into minimalistic, white apartment surfaces and recessed downlights, this volume may be a shock for you, as it educates us to live with a buildings graphic symbol, non destroy it.
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maintenance of historic buildings
Maintenance of Celebrated Buildings, A practical Handbookby Jurgen Klemisch.A practical, easily-on guide to the maintenance of your older firm. Based on many years of feel, this book teaches y'all the current best practices related to maintenance and is presented using a straightforward logical format.
In two sections the book deals with maintenance for use by owners and how to conduct status surveys The book makes extensive use of helpful checklists, work cards detailing routine cleaning, deep cleaning, inspection, servicing and redecoration; and even spreadsheets to help programme your maintenance. Following the books recommendations would over time build a useful record about your house, which will be helpful when deciding the timing of future repairs and let you to assess costs accurately.
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A damp business firm is a dying house……
The Clammy House: A Guide to the Causes and Handling of Dampness. By Jonathan Hetreed. Hardback.
I idea that I would include this book because as the owner of an older holding yous will soon come to learn that h2o or clammy is the mortal enemy of your house!
Managing the wet and water, on, in and effectually your home is vital in the boxing to preserve and protect information technology.
From the patio to the ridge, water is trying to get into your business firm and crusade damage! Read Jonathan'due south insights and learn how to keep information technology at bay.
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Guide to using natural finishes
Using Natural Finishes: Lime and Dirt Based Plasters, Renders and Paints – A Step-by-stride Guide By Adam Weismann
Adam Weismann'south book is more specialized than those higher up and would suit the hard core enthusiast who wants to have a go at repairing their onetime walls and ceilings themselves.
Kevin McCloud from Thou Designs comments that it is "A fantabulous book. A real addition to what's out there and very complementary to the Order for the Protection of Ancient Buildings' new technical manual on Old Edifice Repairs".
Lastly and most importantly….
Your Health and Safety.
Lets keep this sensible and I'll assume that you have plenty of common sense and a reasonable ability regarding DIY.
- Any electric calorie-free fittings should exist removed past a competent person, always isolate supplies and make any exposed wires safe. If in uncertainty get a pro in.
- When removing a board and plaster ceiling, in that location is going to exist a lot of droppings flight around as laths are springy things and can picture show bits of plasterwork into your confront with some force.
- You will also go covered in grit.
- Rusty of nails can be sharp, as tin can cleaved bits of plaster lath.
- Sometime plaster dust can irritate the peel, especially if sweating.
So, the bare minimum that I wear when taking down and clearing up a lath and plaster ceiling or wall for that matter is:-
- Eye protection, Goggles or safe specs (essential)
- Respiratory protection, Dust masks or preferably a proper face up mask (essential)
- Sturdy platform to piece of work from, minimum would be strong stepladder, better would exist builders trestles and scaffold battens. (essential)
- Stout footwear, preferably with steel toecaps (pretty essential)
- Gloves (pretty essential, depending on how 'tough' you are!)
- Disposable 'cover alls' (one piece suit) to cover everything, the spaceman type! (optional simply squeamish)
If you don't have any safety gear then, Screwfix or Tooled Up can supply you and don't exist tempted to skimp on safety gear, nothing costs more than a few pounds! Y'all wouldn't gamble your eyes for a fiver would yous? (read my post [intlink id="1459" type="postal service"]almost eye injuries[/intlink] if you need convincing).
Endnote….
Lath and plaster carpet
Carpet inspired by board and plaster walling
Bev Hisey was so inspired by the await and experience of the board and plaster when renovating her habitation that she has defended a make new carpet design to information technology! Click the image to see more…
As usual this page is a work in progress so feel free to get out comments to tell me how to do it properly 🙂
Stay well
Source: https://polishingpeanuts.com/how-to-2/repair-or-remove-lath-and-plaster-ceilings/
Posted by: snowfamere.blogspot.com
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