How To Remove 7.3 Injectors
Because Diesels are a unlike breed of internal combustion engine, the mutual exercise was to purchase a used engine from the local salvage yard instead of rebuilding one. Only this has become a much harder chore. Salvage engines were an like shooting fish in a barrel replacement simply they take go scarce. Not simply are they getting harder to discover just also the status and mileage of the used engine may become a factor. Over the years of product, aftermarket companies take begun manufacturing parts necessary for their rebuilds.
To rebuild your Power Stroke, y'all will need some basic hand tools such as sockets and wrenches and also some specialty tools. Most of the mitt tools are metric— 8, ten, thirteen, xv, 16, and xviii mm—and include sockets for i/four-, 3/eight-, and 1/2-inch-drive ratchets. Tool suppliers like Mac Tools, Snap-on, and Matco may accept the specialty tools required to properly rebuild a Power Stroke.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Volume, HOW TO REBUILD FORD Ability STROKE DIESEL ENGINES 1994-2007. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you lot can visit this link:
Larn More than Well-nigh THIS Book HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: https://www.diyford.com/ford-power-stroke-seven-3l-engine-removal-disassembly/
For the 7.three engine removal and disassembly, an older body fashion (1994 to 1997) was chosen for the stride-by-step coverage in this book. Plenty of these trucks are notwithstanding on the route today and many of them are in need of a rebuild or are certainly approaching that bespeak. The just major upshot in the engine removal of these yr models is the radiator support. From 1999 to present, the radiator supports tin can be removed for easier access. But in the earlier 1994 to 1997 models, you simply accept to work around the radiator support. The post-obit step-by-footstep photos give you an idea of what is involved.
Begin Removal
Step-i: Disconnect Battery
The start and nearly important matter to do is to disconnect the bombardment. The rider side is exposed then start with this battery start. Call up to isolate the positive bombardment cablevision away from other metallic objects until y'all can disconnect the commuter side.
Footstep-two: Remove Intake Scoop
In guild to disconnect the driver-side battery you lot have to remove the air cleaner intake scoop. This is usually held in identify past a bolt with an 8-mm socket caput.
Step-three: Drain Oil
Apply a three/4-inch wrench and drain the oil. If you perform your own oil changes this shouldn't be a trouble.
Step-iv: Bleed Antifreeze (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Drain the antifreeze. To proceed information technology from dripping along the lesser of the lower radiator support, I install a small slice of 3/8-inch rubber fuel line to the drain nipple. This makes it easier and less messy to aim for the drain pan.
Air Inlet System
Step-1: Remove Air Cleaner Hat Bolts
Use a 1/4-inch-drive rachet with an extension to remove the plastic bolts that concur the top of the air cleaner lid in place. The one/4-inch extension fits into the top of the plastic bolts.
Step-2: Loosen Hose Clamp
Loosen the clamp on the rubber hose coming from the turbo inlet pipe to the air cleaner assembly.
Step-3: Remove Bolts
Use a x-mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the lower air cleaner box to the inner fender.
Pace-4: Disconnect IAT Sensor
Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and remove the lower air cleaner associates.
Step-5: Remove Battery Concur-Downs
Apply an viii-mm socket to remove the bombardment concur-down bolts. Remove both batteries.
Step-6: Remove Radiator Hose
Remove the upper radiator hose by squeezing the top of the clamp together with a pair of pliers.
Front end Belt Drive Accessories and Radiator
Step-1: Loosen Clutch Fan
While the serpentine belt is on the motor, take this opportunity to loosen the clutch fan from the water pump. The chugalug serves equally an extra hand in the loosening process. (Think, this should exist done with a special wrench yous can obtain from the local parts shop for this awarding.) At this time do not fully remove the clutch fan from the water pump.
Step-two: Turn Belt Tensioner Caster(Professional person Mechanic Tip)
After loosening the clutch fan from the water pump, you can remove the drive belt by turning the chugalug tensioner caster. The tensioner pulley is on a spring-loaded cam that applies tension to the belt. Identify a 1/2-inch-drive rachet with a 15-mm socket on the commodities in the center of the pulley and turn.
Step-3: Loosen Belt
This is a view from the tiptop of the radiator with the rachet and socket in position to loosen the belt.
Step-4: Remove Coolant Hoses
Employ a pair of pliers to remove the clamps on the hoses at the coolant degas canteen. Remove the coolant hoses from the degas bottle.
Pace-5: Remove Degas Bottle
Remove the bolts that hold the degas bottle to the passenger-side inner fender wheel using a ten-mm socket.
Stride-half dozen: Remove Clutch Fan and Fan Shroud
With an 8-mm socket, remove the two bolts at the top of the radiator that concord the fan shroud to the radiator. After removing these bolts, finish loosening the clutch fan from the h2o pump. Then remove the clutch fan and fan shroud together at one fourth dimension.
Stride-7: Remove Lower Radiator Hose
Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump housing.
Step-eight: Remove Radiator
At present the radiator can be removed. Using a 10-mm socket, remove the four bolts (ii on each side) that hold the radiator to the radiator support.
Step-9: Disconnect and Remove Alternator
With the radiator removed, more than engine components are exposed. Disconnect the wiring from the alternator. Using a xiii-mm socket, remove the alternator from the engine bracket.
Stride-ten: Remove Pulley Bolt (Special Tool)
Remove the idler caster below the alternator on the engine bracket. This is done past removing the bolt in the center of the caster using a size-50 Torx flake socket.
Stride-11: Remove Pulley
Next, the pulley from the tensioner can be removed. Using a xv-mm socket, plow the commodities in the pulley as though yous were tightening it. The commodities in the pulley has a left-handed thread, so you lot are actually loosening the bolt.
Step-12: Remove Tensioner
Using the same size-50 Torx flake used to remove the idler pulley, you tin can now remove the tensioner from the engine bracket.
Step-13: Remove Engine Bracket
With the accessories and pulleys removed from the passenger-side engine bracket, you can now remove the engine bracket by removing the bolts with a 13-mm socket.
Stride-14: Dissever Connector
The engine wiring harness connector is on top of the driver-side valve cover. The connector is held together with a bolt in the center. As you loosen the bolt in the eye with an 8-mm socket, the connector separates but the bolt does not fall out; the bolt is encased in the connector.
Step-15: Remove Vacuum Pump
The vacuum pump is on top of the commuter-side engine subclass. Disconnect the vacuum line and remove the pump by removing the bolts that are located behind the pulley.
Stride-xvi: Remove Pulley
Apply a power steering pulley remover and installer tool to remove the pulley so you tin can gain access to the bolts that hold the power steering pump to the engine bracket.
Pace-17: Remove Pump
Once the caster is removed from the power steering pump, use a 13-mm socket to remove the bolts from the front of the pump. At this time yous tin can lay the pump to the side without disconnecting any lines.
Pace-18: Remove Bracket Bolts
Employ a 13-mm socket to remove the bolts that hold the commuter-side engine subclass to the engine.
Footstep-19: Remove Down Pipe Clamp
The exhaust down pipe that attaches to the turbo is correct next to the firewall. At this time remove the clench that holds the downwardly pipe to the turbo and let it lay in that location.
Stride-xx: Loosen Downwardly Pipage
This is how close the downwards pipe is to the firewall. At this time the pipe does not demand to be removed, just loosened.
Final Accessories
Step-one: Remove Ground Cablevision
At the front of the engine on the rider's side near the bottom of the cake is a stud that supports the positive battery cable subclass and the ground cable. Using a 15-mm socket, remove the nut from the stud for the bracket. Once the bracket is off y'all can pull the stud and remove the basis cable.
Step-2: Remove Inlet Tube
The aluminum air inlet tube of the turbo is attached to a subclass that mounts to the commuter-side valve cover. Use a x-mm socket to remove the inlet tube from the bracket.
Step-three: Remove Condom Tube (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Loosen the clamp of the condom inlet tube at the turbo and remove the rubber tube. Here, where the rubber tube attaches at the turbo it has started to deteriorate and has started to come apart. Afterwards years of service, oil residuum from the turbo tends to form a pool in this bend of the inlet tube causing delamination.
Pace-4: Remove Motor Mountain Studs
Looking underneath (inside) the crossmember, use a 19-mm socket to remove the nuts from the studs of the motor mounts.
Step-five: Remove Starter
Remove the wires from the starter and, using a 17-mm socket, remove the starter.
Step-6: Remove Bellhousing Bolts
The exhaust pipe from the turbo tightly fits between the manual and the torso. Notice that the factory squeezed the pipe to gain clearance.
Using a 13-mm socket, remove the bolts from the transmission bellhousing. Remove torque converter bolts (automatic transmission). Use a floor jack to support the manual while the engine is being removed.
Step-7: Remove Inlet Tube
Loosen the clamps that concur the inlet tube from the turbo compressor housing to the intake of the engine. Remove the tube and at this time attach a chain to the engine lift brackets.
Step-viii: Remove Pedestal Bolts
Remove the two bolts in the front of the turbo-mounting pedestal with a ten-mm socket.
Step-9: Disconnect EBV
Disconnect the exhaust backpressure valve (EBV) electrical connectedness on the driver's side at the bottom of the turbo compressor housing.
Turbocharger
Footstep-i: Remove Front Turbo Housing Bolts (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Remove the bolts that connect the turbine housing of the turbo to the exhaust up-pipage manifold. This can exist tricky! In club to make things easier, it may be in your best interest to remove the manual because the bolts are almost impossible to go out without breaking.
Footstep-2: Remove "Y" Manifold
Here'southward a big challenge: The "Y" manifold has to come loose from the turbo before the turbo can be removed. The turbo has to come out before the engine can clear the windshield cowl console.
Stride-3: Remove Rear Turbo Housing Bolts
After the "Y" manifold has been removed from the turbo, remove the bolts from the rear of the turbo-mounting pedestal. Then the turbo can be removed from the engine.
Engine Removal
Step-1: Remove Engine
For 1994 to 1997 models, removal and installation of the engine is a tight squeeze due to the design of the engine compartment. This doesn't pose a real trouble; just a footling aggravation.
With a suitable hoist, remove the engine from the engine bay. As well, apply a piece of 2 10 4 to wedge betwixt the frame rails to support the manual afterward the engine is removed.
Footstep-ii: Identify Engine on Stand up (Relieve Money)
These engines weigh approximately ane,000 pounds. In society to support that kind of weight, you need a suitable engine stand up rated for the appropriate capacity. This kind of stand tin can be very expensive considering you lot take to be able to rotate the engine. An option is to build a back up out of woods like to this one and so you tin cradle the engine and remove many of the essentials, then motility it to a budget engine stand to complete the teardown.
Brainstorm Disassembly
Stride-1: Remove Lower Piping Plugs
Once the engine is removed and still on the engine hoist, remove the pipage plugs in the lower portion of the cake to drain the antifreeze. Practise this before placing the engine on a cradle or appropriate engine stand. Information technology volition make the teardown less messy particularly when removing the cylinder heads.
Footstep-2: Remove Oil Cooler Pipe Plug
In order to drain the antifreeze from the driver'south side of the block, y'all demand to remove the pipe plug at the rear of the oil libation using a five/16-inch square-headed socket.
Step-3: Remove Wiring Harness
Remove the wiring harness from the engine.
Step-4: Disconnect Sensors
Remove the bolt from the harness clamp at the lower portion of the water pump on the passenger'due south side. Disconnect the EBV sensor connectors and temperature sender connectors.
Step-5: Remove Relay Bracket Bolts
Remove the bolts that agree the glow plug relay bracket to the rider-side cylinder caput.
Step-6: Remove Engine Harness (Professional person Mechanic Tip)
Unplug the rest of the sensors and remove the engine harness. With the engine harness removed, the highpressure hoses and fuel lines are now exposed and easier to access.
Step-7: Remove Oil Hoses From Cylinder Head
Remove the high-pressure oil hoses from the fittings of the cylinder heads.
Step-8: Remove Hose Clamp
On the driver-side cylinder head, remove the high-pressure level hose clamp at the cylinder head underneath the fuel filter restriction sensor.
Step-9: Remove Oil Hoses From HPOP
Remove the high-pressure level oil hoses from the HPOP.
Fuel Organisation
Step-ane: Remove Fuel Hoses
At the front of each of the cylinder heads are the fuel render hoses. Remove them from the fittings in the cylinder head.
Step-2: Drain Fuel from Filter Basket (Professional person Mechanic Tip)
Below the passenger-side cylinder head near the oil pan is the metal line from the fuel filter handbasket for the water separation drain. Place a bleed pan under the metallic pipe and open up the h2o separator valve on the fuel filter handbasket. This allows the fuel to drain from the filter basket.
Step-three: Remove Fuel Inlet Tubes
At the back of each of the cylinder heads are the fuel inlet tubes that branch together and join at a banjo fitting in the back of the fuel pump. Remove the fuel inlet tubes from the rear of each of the cylinder heads.
Step-four: Remove Fuel Inlet Branch
At present you tin can remove the fuel inlet branch from the back of the fuel pump by removing the banjo fitting.
Stride-5: Remove Fuel Supply Hoses
Loosen the clamps of the rubber fuel supply hose at the fuel pump and rubber fuel return hose at the regulator attached to the fuel filter handbasket and remove the hoses.
Footstep-6: Remove Rubber Hose
Remove the rubber hose at the lesser of the fuel filter handbasket that connects the h2o separation bleed to the metal tube.
Pace-seven: Remove Fuel Filter Basket Bolts
Remove the 2 bolts (one on each side) that concur the fuel filter basket to the engine block.
Step-8: Remove Fuel Pump and Fuel Basket (Of import!)
Using a pry bar, gently lift up on the bottom of the fuel pump. Be careful, the fuel pump actuator rod that runs on the camshaft is sealed by an O-ring that can be stubborn to interruption free. If yous get in too large of a hurry, the bottom of the fuel pump breaks off. In one case the fuel pump is loose from the block, remove the fuel pump and fuel basket together at the same time.
Step-9: Remove Fuel Lines
Now you lot tin can remove the fuel supply and render metal lines that are fastened to the cylinder head with a clamp.
Footstep-x: Remove Crankcase Breather
Accept a Phillips screwdriver and remove the screws that attach the engine crankcase breather to the valve cover.
Fuel Injectors
Stride-1: Remove Valve Cover Bolts
On the commuter side valve comprehend, remove the two nuts that hold the wiring harness support bracket to the valve cover. Then remove the rest of the bolts that concord the valve comprehend to the cylinder head.
Step-two: Remove Valve Cover Gasket
The valve cover gasket of the seven.iii has the wiring harness for the injectors and glow plugs integrated into the gasket. In lodge to remove the gasket yous need to disconnect the injector and glow plug harness.
Step-three: Remove Fuel Plug From Cylinder Caput
Before the injectors are removed, there are several preventative things to do to create less mess. At this time the cylinder head yet has oil in the high-pressure level gallies and fuel surrounding each injector. Start by removing the fuel plug in the rear of the cylinder head with a i/four-inch ratchet to bleed the fuel from the cylinder head.
Step-four: Drain Oil Reservoir (Professional Mechanic Tip)
The easiest manner to bleed the loftier-force per unit area oil reservoir from each cylinder head is to remove the plugs in the reservoir from the front and rear of the cylinder head. Y'all can accomplish this with a 1/2-inch-drive ratchet, but be warned. Most of these plugs cannot be removed unless you apply some heat to the cylinder head get-go. Before removing the plug take a bleed bucket handy, considering in that location will exist quite a bit of oil that is going to come out from the reservoir of each cylinder head.
Step-v: Remove Injector Bolts
Using an 8-mm socket, remove the commodities in the center of the rocker arms beneath the injector. This bolt holds the injector to the cylinder caput.
Step-half-dozen: Push Up on Injector Retaining Ring
Once the bolt is removed, push upward on the injector retaining band. This frees the retaining band from the other commodities in the retaining ring in the upper cylinder head. The retaining band is fabricated to slide on this commodities once the bottom bolt is removed.
Step-seven: Remove Injector
Now take a small pry bar under the retaining ring of the injector and pry up to remove the injector. Something I do is to mark which cylinder the injector came from.
Footstep-eight: Store Injector Properly
Protect the injector by placing it in a gallon storage purse rather than only putting information technology into a box.
Step-nine: Audit Injector Concur-Downward (Critical Inspection)
Look closely and yous will find how the upper bolt of the injector hold-down has fewer threads and more of a shoulder than the lower retaining bolt. Call up this when it is time to reassemble the engine.
Step-10: Remove Intake Manifold
At this fourth dimension, you can remove the intake manifold from the driver-side cylinder head.
Driver-Side Cylinder Head
Pace-1: Remove Rocker Arm
Using an 8-mm socket, remove the rocker arms from the cylinder heads and the pushrods (left). Utilize caution when removing the rocker arm. In the lower office of the rocker arm is the pin ball (right), which can be easily lost.
Pace-2: Remove Exhaust Manifolds
Next, remove the exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head using a 13-mm socket.
Coolant System
Step-i: Remove H2o Pump Pulley Bolts
Next, let's work on removing the forepart structure of the engine. Start by removing the bolts that concur the h2o pump pulley.
Pace-2: Remove Render Pipage
Remove the heater core coolant return pipe from the peak of the water pump.
Footstep-3: Loosen Feed Tube
Utilize a 9/16-inch wrench to concur the exhaust backpressure sensor while using a 5/viii-inch wrench to loosen the tube that feeds the sensor from the passenger-side exhaust manifold.
Step-4: Remove Manifold Feed Pipe
Remove the frazzle backpressure feed pipage from the passenger-side manifold with a five/8-inch wrench.
Step-5: Remove Frazzle Backpressure Sensor
Using a 1-inch wrench, remove the exhaust backpressure sensor from its bracket.
HPOP Organisation
Step-ane: Remove Window Cover Bolts
Remove the bolts to the modest window cover using an 8-mm socket.
Step-two: Remove Window Encompass
The manufactory seals this window cover with sealant, so use a small pry bar to remove the comprehend (left). Now the commodities for the HPOP is exposed (right).
Step-3: Remove Bulldoze Gear Bolt
Use an 18-mm socket and an touch on gun to remove the bolt that holds the drive gear to the HPOP.
Pace-4: Remove HPOP Bolts
Looking at the rear of the HPOP, you volition notice two bolts that hold the HPOP to the front comprehend (left). Using a x-mm socket and extension, remove the bolts in the rear of the HPOP (correct).
Step-5: Remove HPOP
The HPOP can exist removed from the forepart cover of the engine (left). When the HPOP is removed, oil drains from the HPOP reservoir, which is in the top of the front embrace (correct).
Step-six: Remove HPOP Reservoir Bolts
On top of the forepart encompass of the engine is the HPOP reservoir. Remove the bolts from the top and remove the reservoir from the front cover.
Step-vii: Remove HPOP Drive Gear
Afterwards removing the reservoir, you lot can at present remove the HPOP drive gear from the forepart cover.
Passenger-Side Cylinder Head
Step-1: Remove Dipstick Tube Bracket
Next, work on the passenger side. Outset by removing the engine oil dipstick tube from the bracket on the valve comprehend.
Step-2: Remove Dipstick Tube
Once the dipstick tube is gratis from the subclass on the valve cover, pull the dipstick tube out of the oil pan.
Step-iii: Remove Valve Embrace
Now remove the remainder of the bolts from the valve comprehend and remove the valve comprehend from the cylinder head.
Stride-iv: Remove Exhaust Manifold
Using an impact gun and a thirteen-mm socket, remove the exhaust manifold from the passenger-side cylinder head.
Stride-5: Remove Glow Plugs
At this fourth dimension, go ahead and remove the wiring harness, injectors, and glow plugs from the rider-side cylinder head.
Stride-half-dozen: Remove Cylinder Head Bolts
Using a xv-mm socket and an impact gun, remove the cylinder caput bolts. So you lot can remove the cylinder head. Be careful—the cylinder caput is very heavy!
Stride-7: Audit Exhaust and Intake Valves (Of import!)
After removing the cylinder caput, take a look at the combustion side. You will notice that on the vii.3 the exhaust valve and intake valve are the same size. The intake valve is ever identified by the "dimple" in the centre of the valve. Remember this because the valves are not interchangeable.
Pace-8: Remove Lifter Retaining Plate
Remove the lifter retaining plate then the lifters can be removed. Using a 13-mm socket, remove the bolts of the retaining plate advisedly. Each commodities usually has a shim underneath information technology, which can be lost easily.
Transmission-Related Accessories
Step-1: Remove Clutch (Manual Manual Just)
Now that the cylinder heads accept been removed, use an engine hoist to heighten the engine so information technology tin can be placed on an engine stand up. Start by removing the clutch, if the engine is equipped with a manual transmission.
Step-2: Remove Flywheel
Next remove the flywheel or flexplate.
Step-3: Remove Adaptor Plate
At the rear of the engine an adaptor plate was used to adapt the International engine to a Ford manual. The other way around? Go ahead and remove this likewise by sliding the adaptor plate off the dowels at the rear of the engine.
Remaining External Accessories
Step-1: Remove Oil Cooler
Using a 10-mm socket, remove the oil cooler from the engine. 2 bolts at the front embrace and 3 bolts at the rear of the cake hold it on.
Pace-2: Remove Motor Mounts
Remove the motor mounts from both sides of the engine using a 15-mm socket.
Reciprocating Assembly
Pace-one: Remove Oil Pan
Now it is time to work on removing the oil pan. In that location are just twelve bolts that concur the oil pan to the block. The trouble is that in that location is no oil pan gasket, only sealer. This makes the oil pan difficult to remove. Gently pry along the rails of the oil pan the entire length of the block to loosen the sealer so the oil pan does not bend.
Step-two: Remove Oil Pump Choice-upward Tube
When removing the oil pan you detect the oil pump pick-upward tube. Remove the 2 bolts from the oil pump at the front end cover and the support nut from the primary bearing cap to remove the option-up tube.
Step-three: Identify Each Connecting Rod (Documentation Required)
Before proceeding further, it is important to marking each connecting rod before it is removed from the cylinder. This identifies which cylinder it came from and also helps identify the proper connecting rod cap with the right connecting rod. Each cap and rod are machined together, then if these get mixed up it causes a lot of problems. Use a set of machinist stamps and postage the rod and cap as information technology faces the oil pan rail of that cylinder.
Stride-4: Remove Connecting Rod Cap
The nuts of the connecting rod bolts are a 12-bespeak blueprint. Using a 12-point 11/xvi-inch socket, remove the nuts from the bolts that agree the cap to the connecting rod. Then remove the connecting rod cap.
Pace-5: Remove Piston
Utilise the wooden handle of a hammer or a rubber mallet to push upwardly on the connecting rod to move the piston out of the bore (left). Be careful not to hit the piston oilers that are placed in the lesser of the bores. This piston (correct) had high oil consumption and some smoking. The rings were really stuck in the piston.
Step-6: Remove Harmonic Damper
Using an touch gun and a 15/sixteen" socket, remove the bolt from the eye of the crankshaft that supports the harmonic damper (left). After removing the bolt, yous need a special tool to remove the damper (right). Remove the damper to proceeds access to the engine oil pump.
Step-vii: Remove Oil Pump Bolts
Subsequently removing the damper from the crankshaft the engine oil pump is exposed on the front comprehend (left). The oil pump used on the 7.iii was a "gerotor" mode. Remove the four bolts from the oil pump using a x-mm socket (right).
Pace-8: Remove Camshaft Position Sensor (Professional Mechanic Tip)
The camshaft position sensor is located in a higher place the engine oil pump on the passenger side of the front end cover. Remove the sensor using a 10-mm socket. Be gentle; these sensors have an O-ring that may become difficult and seal itself to the front cover. The all-time advice would be to remove the bolt and try to rotate the sensor inside the front cover by rotating the bracket while gently prying on the sensor.
Stride-9: Remove Water Pump
Remove the bolts from the h2o pump and remove the water pump from the front cover.
Stride-ten: Remove Front Embrace
There are only 4 bolts left holding the front cover, remove them with a 10-mm socket and remove the front comprehend to expose the camshaft.
Pace-xi: Remove Bypass Plug
The plug above the camshaft in the top of the engine block on the commuter side is the oil short-circuit bypass plug. The featherbed protects the HPOP reservoir during cold starts. Employ a iii/8-inch ratchet and extension to remove the plug. Be careful because the plug is jump-loaded. Once the plug is removed, pull out the leap and the bank check brawl inside the block.
Step-12: Remove Camshaft Bolts
The bolts that hold the cam thrust plate to the block are backside the windows of the camshaft gear. Rotate the engine to expose the cam bolts in order to remove them.
Step-13: Remove Camshaft (Important!)
Using a 15-mm socket, the main caps can now exist removed from the engine and then the crankshaft can exist removed (above). Take note because the main caps come numbered from the factory along with an arrow indicating their location and their management (right).
Step-fourteen: Remove Piston Oilers
Next, the piston oilers demand to be removed from the block. The oilers are located in the lifter valley of the engine. You need a ten-mm socket to remove the bolts that fasten them to the block.
Pace-15: Remove Galley Plugs
The final matter that needs to be done is to remove all of the galley plugs earlier cleaning. There are 2 plugs to a higher place the camshaft at the front and rear of the engine. The rest of the plugs are at the base of the block at the oil pan on the driver'south side of the engine.
Written past Bob McDonald and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc
GET A Deal ON THIS BOOK!
If you liked this article you lot volition LOVE the full book. Click the button below and we will send you an exclusive bargain on this book.
Source: https://www.diyford.com/ford-power-stroke-7-3l-engine-removal-disassembly/
0 Response to "How To Remove 7.3 Injectors"
Post a Comment